DeMill family in Shonesburg, Utah

DeMill family in Shonesburg

(SHONESBURG, Utah) - While some people believe Grafton is the most scenic ghost town in Utah, Shonesburg (or Shunesburg) is probably one of the better preserved and one of the least accessible. Located on the Virgin River’s east fork as it flows through Parunuweap Canyon is Oliver DeMille’s two story cut-stone house. Near the abandoned home is a rickety fence surrounding a tiny cemetery. Further north, the fence along Zion National Park’s boundary is visible. In addition, remains of a few chimneys and portions of walls are the only clues that a town once existed here. Long before the white man invaded the Virgin River valley, the Indians lived here, according to Stephen L. Carr, author of The Historical Guide to Utah Ghost Towns. Several of the Indians along the river had tiny farms to sustain them and give variety to their game diet. One Paiute native named Shunes (or Shones) had a little spread in a small valley on the Virgin River’s east fork. In 1861, Oliver DeMille and several other families purchased land from Shones and the settlement became known as Shonesburg. Carr states the settlers paid Shones little for the land, so he accepted it as down payment and continued living among the pioneers, doing some work and begging the rest of the time. Shones may have known more than he let on, as he watched the settlers clear the land, dig ditches, plant crops and orchards and maintained them, so they reaped much larger fruits and vegetables than the old Indian had, and he benefited more than if he had held the land, Carr states. The following information on Shonesburg is largely taken from an article written by Janice DeMille, entitled Shonesburg: The Town Nobody Knows, published in the Winter 1977 issue of Utah Historical Quarterly. She notes that while the neighboring canyons of Zion National Park are yearly visited by thousands, Parunuweap Canyon and remains of the pioneer village are rarely seen. It was LDS President Brigham Young’s call of pioneers for the Dixie Cotton Mission on Oct. 7, 1861 which was the impetus for Shonesburg’s start, DeMille states. Among those called from Sanpete County besides Oliver DeMille, were George Petty, Hyrum Stevens, Alma Millett, Hardin Whitlock and Charlie Clapper and their families. Some of the families spent part of the winter below Rockville where the floods of 1861-62 washed away their farms, causing them to move on to a new location. Traveling two miles up the Virgin to where it forked, they followed the east fork. Once a site was chosen, available land was divided into small lots to accommodate newcomers. Oliver DeMille II stated that 10 families made their homes there at that time. A town site was then laid out on the northwest side of the river. Most residents built log cabins and immediately began working on a ditch to bring water to their farms. The residents also cleared the land, planted orchards and vineyards, planted corn and made the irrigation ditch. Using pick, shovel, crowbar and scraper, they also built dugways along the river for a road into the valley. After all this work, only a small crop was harvested. They also built dams across the river, only to see them washed away by unpredictable floods. Nevertheless, by July 1864, Henry Stevens presided over seven families or 45 persons and 75 acres of cotton. A year later, Shonesburg residents finally had a good harvest of cotton, corn and cane. Cotton was also used by some people for beds. During the southern Utah Indian wars of 1866-67, LDS authorities in St. George advised settlers to gather to Rockville, so Grafton, Springdale, Shonesburg and Virgin residents came with only the basic necessities. Some moved in with relatives, but most camped outside, living in their wagons. While some men kept watch for Indian attacks, others went in groups to farm nearby fields. Following resettlement of Shonesburg in 1868, a windlass was built over the ledge at the head of narrow Shonesburg canyon to take the mail up and down the mountain without climbing the trail. Mail carriers were hired to go from Toquerville to Shonesburg Canyon and back. Lorenzo and Horace Slack, carriers at the time, would leave Toquerville Monday morning, go to Shonesburg the first day and camp there that night. The next day, they went four miles to the head of the canyon, ran the mail up the windlass, took the Kanab mail that came down the windlass and went back to Shonesburg for the night, then returned to Toquerville. They made two mail trips a week. When high water prevented crossing the river, they stationed someone on both sides and ran the mail across on a wire. A mule was used to pack the wire. The only public building in Shonesburg was the old log schoolhouse built about 1870, used for public purposes, including church services. Before 1866, no Shonesburg ward organization existed so residents went to Rockville when they could. Later, an LDS Church branch was formed in Shonesburg with Oliver DeMille the presiding elder. School terms were only three months, because students had to work early in the spring and late in the fall. LDS President Brigham Young had sent the saints to raise cotton and make wine, but the settlers grew all kinds of produce, including cane, corn, cotton, watermelons, peaches, apples, pears, apricots, plums and grapes. Little wheat was grown however. Usable farmland ranged from about four miles up the river from town to two miles below. The produce was then sent north and traded for flour and potatoes. Although life was hard, the settlers were almost self-sustaining. The women and girls corded, spun, and wove the raw cotton into cloth, then made their own clothes by hand because they had no machines. Shonesburg residents also had large families with just midwives and no doctors to help. Several women died in childbirth. Home remedies were used and some of the women used their skills as midwives and nurses. There were other resident experts like Joseph Millett, Jr., a master of basket making. Using willows from above Shonesburg, he made baskets to sell, then later taught others how. He also made shoes by hand for all of his older children. He was a carpenter by trade, but was also a proficient blacksmith, mason, farmer, casket maker and shoe maker. Around 1880, Oliver DeMille and his family moved into the two-story rock house on the hill. Each of the wives had her own apartment and fireplace, while on the upper floor was a large room where dances were held. Building on the hill gave a good view of the surrounding country in case of Indian attacks and was also considered a more healthy spot than the valley, because a breeze kept mosquitoes away. Joseph Millett, Jr., did the masonry, with Christian Larson helping on the carpenter work. The DeMille house however, was never completely finished the way Oliver planned. When Brigham Young came to the southern settlements, he on occasion, stayed at the DeMille home. But very few celebrations were held in Shonesburg; the people usually went to Rockville or other early settlements for holidays. Because it was hard to get around and with not much to do, they entertained themselves. Shonesburg was particularly known for good dances. Folks came from miles around to dance at the DeMille’s rock house while afterwards, the fiddlers would be paid in produce for the dance music. But year after year, floods came and washed away more land. Consequently, families began to leave as their farms were washed away. Because many Rockville settlers at one time moved away, Shonesburg people bought their places. Finally, only a few farms were left in Shonesburg. The year 1897 was the last year enough children were available to hold school. By 1900, everyone was gone except Oliver DeMille and his children. Years before, DeMille wanted to move away, but Brigham Young had told him to stay, saying the day would come when there would be a family for every acre of land. Oliver was obedient to counsel. But conditions did not get better, and the floods washed away enough land that finally there was a family for every acre left. After 41 years of struggle, the DeMilles moved to Rockville in 1902 where they went into the mercantile business with a dry goods and grocery store. Today, Shonesburg is a ghost town. Jim Trees, formerly of New York State, later purchased 1,060 acres in Shonesburg Canyon where the old Shonesburg town site was. At present, the entire town site is on private property and is off limits to tourists. Meanwhile, the only thing running free through the town site is the Virgin River which ultimately was cause for the town’s abandonment.